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                      61閱讀

                      桐城蒿子粑

                      發布時間:2018-06-22 所屬欄目:飲食文化

                      從三月三開始到清明期間,老家桐城都流行吃蒿子粑,據說此時吃蒿子粑尤其是孩子吃了蒿子粑可以粑住(粘住)魂魄,不會被什么“齷齪”嚇“掉了魂”,能夠出入平安,這種美好心愿代代相傳,我們沒有理由廢止。記得小時候每年清明期間,母親都會做的,我還經常看著母親做。

                      蒿子粑的傳說,蒿子粑的故事

                      做蒿子粑并不復雜,把米(最好是粳米)用自家的手磨磨成粉,再買來蓬蒿,也可以到郊外挖野蒿,把蒿子洗凈不加水放在鍋里煮,蒿子煮了大半熟其本身的汁水都出來了,此時加入米粉與蒿子在一起翻炒、攪動,并根據具體情況再加水或再加粉使其成為半熟的面坨,起鍋后稍冷卻即可開始做粑,為了不粘手,每做一個都要手沾水。做出的粑一般直徑約兩寸多點,形狀是中間厚周邊薄(這種形狀可謂之“銀河系型”),蒸熟之后的粑顏色為青綠色,在光滑的粑面子上有蒿子構成的清晰“紋理”。記得當時糧食配給少,蒿子粑中的蒿子占80%以上,米粉只起一點粘結作用。不管米粉含量多少,蒿子粑都很好吃,因為蒿的幽幽清香與米的絲絲甜味有機融合了。這種粑如果留到下一餐吃,可重蒸一次,用油煎不常見,十幾年前我回桐城做清明曾買過油煎蒿子粑,感覺并不好。如今,安慶街頭也有賣蒿子粑的,除價格高外,食材、外相、口味都無法與當年相比了。

                      如今蒿子粑被當做一種時令食品兼民俗食品,若問這種食品最初來源,可能難找到答案,或許它就是古代以野菜充饑的貧困者發明的。不管怎么說,在半個世紀前的短缺經濟時代,它確實是美味而營養的食品。說到這,我想起一件讓我終生愧疚的往事,也是我一生中最對不起母親的幾件事之一。大約是1960年春天,因為當時糧食定量太少,母親常到郊外挖回野菜做粑吃,某日下午母親又挖野菜去了,我五點鐘放學回家,看到鍋里有6個蒿子粑還帶著余溫,作為14歲的孩子,總是饑餓的俘虜,我立即狼吞虎咽地吃了3個,過了一會兒母親還未回來做飯,我忍不住又把剩下的3個蒿子粑全吃下,然后出去玩了。天快黑時我回來了,母親正在灶下燒火,她見到我只說了一句:“我餓死了,你把蒿子粑全吃了,哪怕留一個給我也好!”后一句她重復了一遍,這是我第一次聽到母親喊餓,第一次聽到母親埋怨我多吃了,后來一想,母親中午吃得本來不多,下午6小時挖野菜和來回步行近20里路,她累餓交加,回來看到鍋里空空如也,家中也什么吃的都沒有,只待重新煮飯,母親真的難受啊,我怎么就沒有想到?在灶中火光的映照下,我看到母親瘦削的臉,看到母親眼睛里還噙著淚水,我無言以對。

                      如今,正宗的野蒿子粑很難吃到了,但那一段記憶卻如同一種隱痛,讓我刻骨銘心,也激勵我不斷求索。

                      本文標題:桐城蒿子粑
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